Salgareda & Venice

After spending two weeks in and around Milan, I thought I’d never see the beautiful countrysides of Italy again…until Salgareda.

Town square.

The family I stayed with lived in an enormous home which also substituted as a lumber yard and agricultural store.  The entire house was surrounded by corn fields and beautiful views.  Plus, everything is just a bike ride away (which is the main mode of transportation when going around town…my dream come true).  I don’t think there are rental places though because it’s not much of a tourism town.

Gorgeous when the sun is on its way down.

my backyard in Salgareda

Swinging in the front yard with Giorgia, my host sister.

biking around the tiny town with my host family

I doubt any traveler would come visit Salgareda based on reading any guidebooks, but nearby is a little city called Oderzo which is more populated.  There are a few reasons I loved Salgareda.  First of all, the people in the town were warm and welcoming.  Second of all, there was plenty of cheap wine at tiny local bars with friendly service.

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Rho, you’s a hoe. Milan, you’re alright.

My next stop after Castello di Serravalle was in a suburb of Milan called Rho.  It has 2 train stops, but only one of them is totally complete.  Rho Fiero is surrounded by construction and makes it virtually impossible to figure out how to enter or exit the premises.

We could NOT escape from the Rho Fiera/o train station

I arrived on a dreary day in June and it remained dreary for an entire week.  But I did discover the town center which is actually really cute.  There’s a bar near the square called Al Traffic that has an excellent aperitivo at around happy hour time.  For only about 2 euros, you can get a large glass of vino and a small but delicious all you can eat mini-buffet of tiny pizzas, paninis, olives, cheeses and chips.  So delicious and so affordable!  After work each day, the other tutors and I would head over for a drink and some snacks because the staff is super friendly and accommodating.  I was only in Rho for two weeks, but managed to go to Al Traffic about eight times.

super dreary

Beautiful building in the square

The town square is pretty small, but it’s basically the highlight of the area.  There is only one exception to that, and it’s because there is an old water mansion fun-house place about 10 minutes away.  I’m not sure what the name of it is, but one of the local families wanted to take me and a couple of my friends.  You have to view the mansion as a tour, but they do it in a few languages and English isn’t a problem.  The problem is getting shot up between your legs or in the face with a random water spout here or there and not seeing it coming.

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Castello di Serravalle – castle town in the hills

I could have had no better surprise than going to Castello di Serravalle for my first week stop after Sanremo.  Although it was difficult arriving there from Bologna by train because it was conveniently broken down that day.  My friends and I had to figure out the bus system to Castello di Serravalle by asking unhelpful strangers.  Finally one sweet twenty something girl brought us on the bus and let us know when to get off.  Upon arrival, this place is magic.

hello gorgeous.

I’m not much of a country girl, but I soon found myself in a gorgeous bed and breakfast called Casa Fonsi for a whole week not wanting to ever leave.

For more information! The owners don't speak English, but their daughter Camilla does!

Most of the other English tutors were placed in the town center, but I was up on top of the hill overlooking the city with my host family’s parents (a camper’s grandparents).  No complaints here.  The family lived on their own farm and vineyard.  Most of our food was straight from the garden and the wine was made from their grapes.

The home and restaurant of Casa Fonsi. Too beautiful for words. PERFECT for dinner parties or weddings or housing a tutor for a week for free.

They have 2 donkeys...one's name is Hugo I think. Hugo the donkey.

Yes, and they have geese. Huey, Dewey and Louie. True story.

Breakfast is served out on the back terrace overlooking the city below. Everything fresh baked from the restaurant. Heaven.

I arrived on a Saturday and was invited to my host daughter Carolina’s first communion on Sunday morning.  It was at a beautiful church and the whole event was very elegant.  The after-party was even more elegant if possible.

The grand finale with streamers.

With my beautiful host family on 1st Communion Sunday.

Host uncle, me & the host father at the after party at Casa Fonsi.

Charlie's angels by the roses with the girls. I felt like I was in Alice and Wonderland with all the gorgeous roses growing on the walls of Casa Fonsi.

My life in Castello di Serravalle was not all luxurious meals in beautiful settings.  The other parts were just as great though.  After camp on most days, the other tutors and I would go to the corner bar in the city square owned by an Asian family and unwind with a few beers and vinos.  Since it was such a small town, everyone knew who we were and always greeted us with smiling faces and sometimes free drinks.  Apparently I was the “talk of the town” because most of them had never seen a tall girl with short shorts and tan legs before.  One of my tutor friend’s host family tried to set me up with a “beautiful, rich bachelor” over dinner one evening.  Italians are always match-making.

Tutor drinks in the square.

Letting loose, ACLE style.

There was something about the people in Castello that made it such a warm and welcoming place.  Every meal I ate was prepared to impress.  Every local was accommodating and hospitable.  The camp directors made sure to feed us every chance they got and help us in any way possible.  The children were adorable, excited and eager to play.  It seems a little surreal, but these people just had the most amazing quality of life.  There was pleasure in everything they did and the feeling was spread everywhere.  There was no better place to start working at a camp than Castello di Serravalle.

We had the most wonderful going away dinner hosted by our camp directors and staff.

The most amazing group of tutors to work together (plus Andrei).

If you ever have the chance to stop through this castle town in the hills of the outskirts of Bologna, please do.  Tell them you know Jason, Katherine, Frank, Andrei, Caitlyn, Luisa or Stephanie and I think you’ll be welcomed with open arms.

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Sanremo, I love you but you’re breaking me down

After leaving Rome, I had to take a train to Sanremo for my English teaching orientation. I’ll be honest with you.  I was not psyched at all to be leaving my friends in Rome, but apparently Sanremo is gorgeous.   Upon arrival, I kind of fell in love with this posh little Italian beach town.

Welcome to Sanremo

After a careful five day assessment of the city, here are some of Sanremo’s top things to see or do:

See the world's oldest children's rides. Possibly.

Check out all the bright tiny cars by the marina. Not to mention the boats by the marina, I guess.

Stay at Hotel Festival because the brothers that own it have a scary little dog AND they'll open your bottles of wine for you all hours of the night and morning.

Have an espresso at Elena's cafe just after sunrise. Cutest little old lady in town. Although I've heard Melodies/Melody's is the best coffee in Sanremo (you're welcome Vincent).

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Roma 4

My fourth day in Rome started off wonderfully:  Aislinn got off work by 2pm, I could sleep in as long as I wanted, and I could start watching Under the Tuscan Sun.  When I woke up, I made myself some coffee and peppercorn cheese with tiny toast.  Then I sat by the terrace and wrote in my journal all morning watching it drizzle outside.

best breakfast in town.

Today was our day to do whatever we wanted and just stroll around the city.  Oh and see Sex and the City 2 on it’s opening day in Rome.  Our original plan was to buy a bottle of wine and see the movie (since Italy doesn’t have the stupid American open container laws), but we got side-tracked while shopping and didn’t have enough time to grab a bottle before the movie started at 4:15.  It didn’t matter because the movie was amazing.  The 2 million wardrobe changes were insane and the joke made about the Italian men cheating was NOT funny to the Italians (Aislinn and I had a good laugh about it until we noticed the silence in the theater).

When we left the theater, I actually ran into a golfer from the University of South Carolina where I used to go.  I couldn’t believe I was running into Whitney while just walking around Rome.  Small world.

USC athletes in Rome.

Since it was Friday night and Aislinn had no work in the morning, we decided to make it our “big girl’s night out.”  We started by picking up some red wine, a variety of cheeses and some proscuitto to have our own little apertivo while watching the rest of Under the Tuscan Sun.  Ps.  As I’m writing this, I’m on a train from Rome to Sanremo and I just pinched the shit out of my knee when moving the tray table in front of me.  I think I may have just created the world’s biggest blood blister on my knee cap.  Sick.

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Roma 3

I had to be a big girl on my third day in Rome because Aislinn had to work all day.  This meant that I had to let myself out of the apartment, find the metro,  get myself to the Vatican, get myself through the Vatican, get myself out of the Vatican and then meet Aislinn so we could go to dinner at her boyfriend Marco’s home.

Outside the Vatican Museum. Super old school.

It’s not as easy as it looks, but since I’m terrible with directions and all things practical, I usually just ask for help.  Plus that gave me a chance to practice my Italian.  So far it consists of beautiful, wine, how much and where.  The only problem is understanding the answer when someone actually responds.

I’m just going to go ahead and say that I went to the Vatican for two semi-important reasons.  1.  As much as I hate sight-seeing, I feel like its my former catholic girl duty to go to our “mecca”.   And the second reason is that I really wanted to see what this whole Michelangelo/Sistine Chapel ceiling thing was all about.

Um...St. Peter's...how gorgeous can you get?

As far as the Vatican museum (15 euro), the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Church go,  I have never seen anything so gilded and elaborate in my entire life.  It was actually virtually impossible to take it all in and realize the size of St. Peter’s.  I figured if I was going to go to the dark side, I’d go all the way.  So I even bought the little pass to go up to the very tip top of St. Peter’s and get the view from the dome that was designed by Michelangelo himself.  I have no clue how old or fat people make it up the 300+ narrow stairs to get to the top (7 euro).  I swear the only reason I made it was because I brought my iPod and motivated myself with Passion Pit’s Little Secrets the entire way up singing “higher and higher” to myself.

The view from the top. Unreal.

PS- the view of the entire city of Rome from the top of St. Peter’s is worth the chump change to get up there.  Don’t be a cheapo.  Just do it.

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Roma 2

My second day in Rome started with a stroll from St. Peter’s church to the Coliseum.  Aislinn is a serial power-walker, but since my legs are a lot longer than hers, it was still somewhat of a stroll.  Since it’s already tourist season, the church area was completely packed.  It was hard to steer clear of the hundreds of Americans and Australians trying to charm you and sell you a tourist guide package.  Yuck.  I just can’t stand tours or guides or groups.

During our walk, we stopped for an Italian beer (Nastro Azzurro) and a slice of ricotta and sausage pizza near a pub Aislinn used to work at.  So delicious.  It’s going to be really hard not to eat my heart out here.

Beautiful cafe. Delicious beer.

After taking a couple photos of the Roman Forum and Coliseum, we headed back to Termini for Aislinn to go to work.  While she was at work, I took advantage of the Roma pass (25 euro for the first two major museums or archaeological sites for free, free public transportation for 3 days and some of the sites after the first two are discounted).  It’s a fantastic deal for anyone considering each metro ride is 1 euro and visiting just the Coliseum is about 12 euro.

The one and only.

Awesome graffiti.

Aislinn & Marco in front of the Coliseum.

I tried to walk to the Coliseum from Termini by following a street sign.  That was a mistake.

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Roma – the love of my life.

I’m one of the lucky ones.  I happen to have a friend from college living in a fantastic, quaint, 2-bedroom apartment right in Rome, Italy.  Therefore, not only is my accommodation free, I have an experienced local willing to take me around on my journey to fall in love with Rome.  Truth be told, it took me about five minutes flat to accomplish this mission.

Aislinn in her bedroom. Beautiful apartment.

I’m writing this blog post right now from the apartment’s terrace overlooking her backyard garden sipping on caffe (coffee) and soaking in the morning sun.  Welcome to the good life.

Writing my blog post looking into the back terrace area.

My friend living in Rome, Aislinn, also had another house guest with her (another South Carolinian), Merritt.  And since Aislinn works as an English teacher (don’t we all, thesedays?), she had to work a full day on my first day of arrival.  Luckily Merritt had an entire day of shopping, drinking prosecco & eating delicious Italian food already planned out.  And by plan, I mean we did whatever we pleased whenever we pleased (like only a true Italian would).

hanging out around the American embassy

On my first subway ride with Merritt, I discovered there was something about me that the men in Italy just couldn’t resist.  I haven’t been called beautiful more times in my life combined as I did the first 30 minutes of walking around Rome.  I’ve heard it’s long legs and a tan.  But the first man to approach Merritt told her in broken English that her voice sounds like Mickey Mouse.

By lunchtime, Merritt’s good Italian friend had met up with us and we all headed to a light lunch at Popy’s cafe.  One of the male servers there asked me if I wanted to stay with him.  I asked if he meant forever.  He laughed and said only for tonight.  And that pretty much sums up the Italian male mentality.  I don’t think so, mister.

Shopping Triangle

One of the things I loved the most about my first day in Rome is that I spent it with two girls that I’ve never met in my whole life.  We had a wonderful day shopping around the Spanish steps Shopping Triangle area, stopping along the way for caffe and prosecco, pizza and paninis.  The shopping in that area, by the way, is super glamorous.  I felt like a millionaire walking along that old street filled with Missoni, Prada, Gucci, MaxMara, Burberry, you name it.  The Italians walking along it were so chic and dressed impeccably.  I could have walked up and down that street a hundred times.  But since we couldn’t afford anything on that strip, we headed around the triangle to all of the small boutiques carrying less expensive, beautiful items.

Merritt and I headed back to Aislinn’s apartment before meeting up with her to head out to dinner.  On our way back, we stopped at a grocery store and picked up 11 euro worth of prosecco, cheese and toast points.  It was a steal.  So we pre-gamed with our own apertivo (the snack that is usually served for free at Italian restaurants starting around 5pm if you order a slightly over-priced alcoholic beverage).

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The Jungle Railway to Taman Negara

The start of my three month trip around Southeast Asia was in Kuala Lumpur.  This is my second time being in Kuala Lumpur, and after seeing the sights once it isn’t really necessary to see them again.  Regardless, KL is a great place to get delicious food and cheaper (than the rest of Malaysia) beer.  The lamb curry is to die for.

David and I arrived really late into KL and checked into the only hostel that I am familiar with, Wheeler’s Guesthouse, because I had a decent experience there last time.  Truth be told, I wanted to get another view of the eccentric people that run it.

The next morning we had plans to take the Jungle Railway from KL through Gemas and on to Jerantut, in order to get the jetty to Taman Negara.  Unfortunately, it didn’t seem like these plans were going to follow through because I started having a huge ache in my foot from doing the 10k hike along the Great Wall two days before in China.

First things first, David and I went to the train station to get the tickets.  It’s always cheaper to go directly to train stations to book your tickets, and getting around on the public transportation in KL makes everything so easy.  We booked sleeper seats on the train, which left at 8 PM and arrived in Jerantut at 4:30 AM.

After we booked, I realized that I probably needed to go to a clinic or hospital to get my foot checked.  Having a stress fracture is no way to start a 3 month backpacking trip.  But since we were getting sick of yanking on locked doors on every clinic in Little India, we realized we better go ahead and have lunch like the rest of KL and try again after 1:30 PM or so.

I made the mistake of not getting my traveler’s insurance from World Nomad’s before I hurt myself.  But it didn’t matter because one doctor visit, a couple xrays and a package of pain medication later, I was only 40 USD in the hole.  I love you Malaysian health care system.

Since we had about 6 hours to kill before the train left, we walked around Little India sampling food and fruit beverages.  I normally dislike tattoos, but I felt the urge to get a henna tattoo made because “when in Rome…”.  Some shaky-handed lady started making a mess on my arm and I immediately cut out half the order on my fore arm.

Thank God that wore away in about 3 days.

Soon enough, we were off on my first sleeper train experience.  I absolutely loved it.  It wasn’t as cheap as a bus, but actually being able to lay down flat and sleep in air conditioning is amazing while traveling.  We were informed that the part of the Jungle Railway starting from the very bottom of Malaysia all the way up until Jerantut wasn’t the “jungliest” of the Jungle Railway so it’s okay to sleep through it and not catch the view.  The best view is from Jerantut up to Wakaf Bharu.

Cozy in his tiny bed on the train.

I slept really well on the train, but getting woken up at like 4:15 AM to hop off at a train station in the middle of nowhere wasn’t the best.  After a few games of cards in the dark, David and I decided to walk into town to get some coffee or snacks.  We would need to take a bus or cab from Jerantut to the jetty, which was about 30 minutes away.

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Great Wall of China: the 10k hike into the sky

After booking the trip to the Great Wall through a travel agency that spoke no English, and not getting picked up by them, David and I made a last minute decision to go ahead and book (25 minutes after departure time) with the Sunrise Hostel.

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So thankful to be on that bus that day. Thank you Sunrise Hostel!

We knew going into the trip that we wanted to do the less refurbished area of the wall and do the zip line off the wall over the river.  It wasn’t that expensive of a day trip, but through out hostel it was about 295 Yuan a person.  Basically, our hostel saved the day by rerouting the morning tourist pick-up so that we could make it on the trip that day.

Word to the wise:  Trying to be cheap and going through a non-English speaking travel agency should be avoided at all costs, despite the amount of money that you would save.

When we got on the bus, our tiny Chinese tour guide said the cutest thing I’ve ever heard.   She told us to make sure and wear our tour guide pins so that she’d know we were with her because “all foreigner face look same to me.”  I fell in love with her immediately.  Then I fell in love a little more when she bought David and I cans of coffee at the first rest stop because since we booked late, we didn’t get the breakfast sandwiches and apple juice boxes that everyone else got.  I think we got the better end of that deal.

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Can't beat the view.

Soon enough we were there and ready to start the 10k hike across the “old” part of the Great Wall.  The reason we chose that side is because of all the recommendations from other travellers who say that it’s a lot less touristy and you practically have the Great Wall to yourself.

Let me remind you that my breakfast included a Snickers bar, a banana and a tiny canned coffee prior to my 10k hike in my TOMS.  Not brilliant.

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I love my TOMS, but in retrospect, some cushioning would have been delightful.

So here are some pictures of our amazing day hiking the Great Wall.  The weather was perfect, but the constant stink bugs landing on me could have been better.

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Balancing on the wall.

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